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2011/07/29

Update 15

It was a short hop from Skagway to Juneau, so I laid down on a recliner in the rear solarium area of the ship. I had left my sleeping bag in the car deck, which was inaccessible while under way, so I put my backpack under my head, and slept for a few hours. When we arrived in Juneau I was feeling much better and rode into town to write this update from a Starbucks inside Safeway.

Catching the news for the first time in weeks I learned that a Norwegian massacred over 70 people and that little girl was bitten by a shark in Florida. When interviewed, the girl forgave the shark and said "he didn't mean to do it."

The TV man also warned gravely that if we don't cut back on spending for the poor and elderly we face the choice of becoming a country with European tax burdens, or turn into an irresponsible and insolvent nation like modern-day Greece. Ancient Sparta seemed a better comparison to me, with its focus on strength and superiority, its vast resources invested in military might, freedom and equality for those who have the resources or birthright to enjoy it, and humiliation and servitude for its own weak and the poor. To help the viewer reach a reasoned conclusion, a debate ensued. It appeared to consist of people shouting contextless one-liners called "facts," while continually trying to interrupt each other. Whenever the opposing side actually spoke more than one sentence, the camera would cut to the attractive female co-host who would gape and roll her eyes at the lesser man. I cannot understand how anyone can watch people behaving in such a way and saying the things they do without becoming enraged or ill. I had planned to stay longer but found it intolerable.

Back on the boat I settled in for the long stretch for Prince Rupert and took a few pictures in the evening and the next morning. It has been rainy and overcast continually, but I am enjoying the trip a lot. I really like the ship. The whole boat thrums and rumbles in resonance with the engines, and rocks and rolls gently as the captain runs the course through the endless straights and island chains.

After weeks of camping, electricity, water, and heat are in limitless supply. I took a 30 minute shower and for the first time needed to turn down the heat to avoid getting scalded. The bathroom appeared to be heated by the ambient warmth of the exhaust stacks radiating through the boat superstructure, so I didn't even freeze after stepping out of the shower. Food is good here too, and three times a day I can get full to the point of being unable to eat any more, for $10 a meal. That's cheaper than at any diner or fast-food restaurant I've been in. Large $2 bowls of cottage cheese really help round out breakfast and lunch, and I make sure to ask for gravy on anything that'll carry it.

Last night we sailed past a stark border in the waters, between the dark tide off the open ocean and the lighter tide of the fresher inner waters.



I awoke in the morning to a few people milling around the rear deck of the ship to see the Wrangell Narrows. It was very narrow and I was impressed at the skill demonstrated by navigating a large ship through the channel. Mud flats were throwing up breakers from our wake only tens of feet off either side. Bald eagles rested like pidgeons on the buoys and channel markers. Many houses lay along the straight, most in good repair. I envied the man with the glass-front house, and nice aluminum boat and seaplane parked out front. You can see part of the solarium canopy in one of the pictures. It is an open-faced structure with glass panels and gas heaters to make some warmth despite the wind. It's nice to stay out there instead of being cooped into one of the cabins or lounges.



Arrival in Prince Rupert is at 3AM on the 28th, and I will try to catch the BC Ferry the same morning at 7:30AM over to Port Hardy at the northern tip of Vancouver Island, arrival at 10:30PM.

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